posted 10-31-2000 12:25 AM            

From my experience I found that Mobil 1 synthetic has been trouble free since the day I started using it.

Thanks!

posted 10-31-2000 09:41 AM            

Doug

posted 10-31-2000 05:16 PM            

Because they don't make oil.
They're strictly a marketing company and they buy oil from other oil companies.

It's still good oil, and I am of the belief that any name brand oil is about the same as any name brand oil. Quaker State had some bad oil & bad publicity a few decades ago but now they're owned by Pennzoil. Exxon's Superflo is now the same as Mobil, and so on and so forth.

Mobil 1 is still the best, and IMHO you can group the rest of the synthetics together just below Mobil 1.

Another note, you shouldn't run an oil thicker than 30W on the street, especially in a new engine, it is very bad on startup and you don't need the extra thickness, 20W50 will hurt a new motor more than any 'bad' off-brand 10W30 oil will. 20W50 is made for engines that are just plain worn out and will smoke with a thinner oil.
A local Police department used 20W50 in a bunch of new 4.6L Crown Vics and burned up 5 motors before they stopped, Ford wouldn't warranty either because they only recommend 5W30.
If you look at oil bottles you'll see that only 5W30 and 10W30 have a 'seal' on the front, this seal states that these oils are certified by all automakers for use in new cars, no other oil weights (besides the new 0W30) have this seal, that should tell you something.

Just because a thicker oil gives you higher oil pressure doesn't mean you're getting more oil to the engine, it just means the oil pump has to work harder to get it there. Try sucking a milkshake through a straw, it takes more pressure than water but it doesn't mean you get more shake. -CP

posted 10-31-2000 05:31 PM            

for my picks, synthetic give me Mobil one or Amsoil
for regular, gimme valvoline. I avoid pennzoil and castrol.. one bottle of 20=50 castrol had chunks of "stuff" floating in the bottom

posted 10-31-2000 06:44 PM            

Another example, at the IHRA Bracket Finals at Cordova this year,I came out of the waterbox 7200 in high gear, showin off ya know, stopped and the thing was covered with smoke from under the hood. I run dual oil filters and where the mount screw onto the block broke clear off as I started out of the water pumping 7 qrts on the track instantly.

posted 10-31-2000 08:25 PM            

My Castrol rep told me directly that Castrol no longer makes automotive oil, they only make specialty oils for industrial purposes. Until I can see some hard proof otherwise, I believe him. Why would he tell me this if it wasn't true? It certainly doesn't make Castrol look any better.

posted 10-31-2000 09:45 PM            

quote:

---

Originally posted by cpmaverick:
I worked for a Castrol Oil distributor, and I can tell you that there is no way that Castrol is the best oil out there. Why?

Because they don't make oil.
They're strictly a marketing company and they buy oil from other oil companies.

It's still good oil, and I am of the belief that any name brand oil is about the same as any name brand oil. Quaker State had some bad oil & bad publicity a few decades ago but now they're owned by Pennzoil.

---

Unless Castrol is lying through their teeth on both their worldwide website(www.castrol.com) and their US website (www.castrolauto.com) Castrol is still one of the biggest manufacturers in the world. We use Castrol at work and our local distributor assured me that they manufacture all their own product.

As for Quaker State being bought by Pennzoil, that is correct and very sad. Pennzoil is horrible oil. I have seen soooo many sludged up engines that used that crap.

In my personal opinion, as long as you use a good grade of oil and change it every 3,000 miles or better you should never have an oil-related problem. Synthetics are fine, but unless you race or live in a very cold or hot climate, your benefits are minimal given the cost differential. We have customers that have been coming to our dealership for years for routine maintainence and it's not uncommon to see 200,000+ miles on these cars with no oiling problems whatsoever.

------------------
Dave

1993 5.0 LX convertible (his)
1994 F150 Lightning #2392 of 4007 (hers)
http://www.islandclassicmustangclub.com
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M&M Member #666 - The devil made me do it.

posted 10-31-2000 10:22 PM            

I was wondering if you guys knew where I could get that Royal Purple and how much it runs a quart.

posted 11-01-2000 03:51 PM            

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*WARNING: RATED MA for Mature Audiences only!*

Joseph J Shaffer IV
Walla Walla, WA
MustangsandMore Member# 37
'68 Mustang Coupe, 2.79 gears.
'64 Mercury Comet, 2.80 gears
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'70 Chevy Pickup

Heh, and you think Sam needs Gears?!

posted 11-01-2000 04:18 PM            

As for the burning, Clark, I fly the engines you build. We see peak operating temps at up to 815 degrees C, which is what, about 1500 F. I figure our car engines run in the 250 F range, if that. There is a big difference temperatures and also rpm's. Consider that I don't go above 4500 or 5000 rpm in my car, but can see 37,500 rpm on the power turbine in the jet.

Yeah, there is a reason synthetics are used in jet engines, but for practical purposes, I really don't think its necessary in 302, especially at $5 a quart.

just my own opinion

posted 11-01-2000 04:53 PM            

What is his opinion about motor oils? Well, he likes synthetics, but he uses WHATEVER brand name the guy at the quick change place puts in there. He said that the regularity of your oil changes is MUCH more important than the oil going in.

As far as cars that come with a Mobile 1 synthetic sticker on the motor. Yes, the auto companies do run the motors before shipping the cars. In the case of the "German" companies, they run the motors to achieve most of your required break-in. Chevy actually runs the Vettes on a specialized chassis dyno that test various aspects.

The reason they can break in a motor with these oils is that they have engineered them that way, the rings, cylinder bore finish, and bearing surface prep, and lots of other things, are all done to allow that to happen. My FE motor was not.

posted 11-01-2000 07:09 PM         

In my wagon I use their oil, oil filter, and their ATF in the tranny and power steering; in the Saturn the oil, oil filter and ATF, and in new ride I've already switched the rear end, manual tranny and power steering - I've got to get some more break-in mileage on it before I can change over the motor.

The wagon has almost 80K trouble free miles and the Saturn, which gets used alot less, has 25K on it. I don't burn oil between changes in the wagon - in fact the only time I burn oil, and it's only ounces, is when I've got the thing fully loaded down with the whole family for vacations - long rides, hot weather, higher speeds, A/C on etc. Using the ATF has helped me avoil the Ford self-destructing tranny hex (at least so far). No problems with the power steering at all.

The Saturn burns nothing between changes. No doubt in my mind that mileage on the wagon has vastly improved - I always exceed the city rating by about 2mpg and the best I've gotten on the highway is 35mpg. Similar results on the Saturn.

The stats I've seen comparing Amsoil to Mobil 1 all show Amsoil is a better product. Take a look at their website for more info (www.amsoil.com). Also, for $10 a year you can become a preferred customer and buy their product over the net at dealer prices - they ship to your door.

I admit I'm a bit biased for the Amsoil product but I'd encourage you to try their stuff - particularly their Series 2000 0W-30 for normal use and their Universal ATF. You'll run cooler, smoother, improve mileage and if you're in a colder area of the country, starting and shifting will be alot easier in the dead of winter.

Good luck in your quest. If you want to know anymore about Amsoil just send a reply to this post and I'll get back to you.

posted 11-01-2000 07:47 PM            

quote:

---

Originally posted by wythors:
We use Castrol at work and our local distributor assured me that they manufacture all their own product.
[/B]

---

Hey, I also use Castrol at work. And our Distributor rep told ME that Castrol doesn't make the GTX or Syntec oils (the only Castrol oils we sold) They buy them from other oil companies and use Castrol's good name to market them. He could have been a good bull$hitter, God knows there are plenty of them out there, but thats what he told me. I'm basically at the same infomoration level that you are. I think I'll email Castrol and see if I can find out. I can't find any stantements on their website that clearly says they make the oil, it just says how great the stuff is. -CP

posted 11-02-2000 11:21 AM            

Also, B&M came out with a fairly new oil filter as well. But I'm not sure what the advantages are.

Not till recently did I know that Mobil 1 made oil filters and they sell them at walmart. I might have to try one.

Thanks!

posted 11-02-2000 11:22 AM            

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-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
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www.MAVERICKGRABBER.com

posted 11-02-2000 04:31 PM            

Clark, I'm afraid I must admit what you say is true: checking the oil is one of the hardest things I have to do on pre-flight. We have a sight gauge that is really hard to see sometimes depending on sun-angle. As for the temps, I'll concede that was a good point too: different methods of measuring the temperature. However, I still think that we're comparing apples and oranges performance-wise between the two any way you look at it.