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This topic was originally posted in this forum: '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
Author Topic:   POLL- best Engine oil and why?
DC65inlines
Journeyman

Posts: 28
From: Nevada
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 10-31-2000 12:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DC65inlines   Click Here to Email DC65inlines     
I'm just trying to see what all of you believe to know as the best motor oil.

From my experience I found that Mobil 1 synthetic has been trouble free since the day I started using it.

Thanks!

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DC65inlines [OOOOOO)http://www.geocities.com/dc65inlines/Newsite.html


clevemach1
Gearhead

Posts: 100
From: Ventura CA USA
Registered: AUG 99

posted 10-31-2000 03:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for clevemach1   Click Here to Email clevemach1     
castrol syntech blend 20w-50

------------------
Mike Thomas,age 18
1970 Mach1
"FastFordWard"


68fb
Journeyman

Posts: 42
From: LakeStevens, Wa. USA
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 10-31-2000 07:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68fb     
Any of the synthetic, or synthesized, oils are going to be much, much better at withstanding temperature and pressure extremes than a mineral based oil. However, if you have even the remote possibility of an oil leak, they will let you know.


mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 7459
From: So. Fl.
Registered: AUG 2000

posted 10-31-2000 09:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow     
Castrol brand oil in everything since owning a car. Quaker State when you want to win a sludge contest in your Nova.


Mustang Man
Gearhead

Posts: 332
From: Howe Indiana USA
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 10-31-2000 09:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mustang Man   Click Here to Email Mustang Man     
Best oil: Valvoline.
Why: Just because
Later,

Doug

------------------
66coupe 200ci "InlineFever"
92F-150 4.9L "BigBlue"
"Have Spraygun Will Travel"
"Six Packer Performance Freak"!!!!


Clark
Gearhead

Posts: 739
From: Rowlett,Texas
Registered: AUG 99

posted 10-31-2000 09:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clark   Click Here to Email Clark     
As I have said in earlier posts, if synthetic is good enough for jet engines that run at 1600 degrees F, Its good enough for my cars and lawn equipment. Pick the brand you like I prefer Mobil 1.

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof Deluxe


tbell68
Journeyman

Posts: 55
From: Tempe, AZ
Registered: JUN 2000

posted 10-31-2000 12:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for tbell68   Click Here to Email tbell68     
I agree I like Mobil 1 the best. But why is it that "if you have even the remote possibility of an oil leak, they will let you know"-from 68fb's post?

tbell68

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27870
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: MAY 99

posted 10-31-2000 12:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     
It all depends. Petrolium, I like and use Castrol GTX or Motorcraft because it's the best products out there. Why? Because I say so! Havoline, Amoco Gold, Kendall, Valvoline, are also good oils that I use at times. Penzoil, Quaker State, and most private lable or house brands I stay away from! Synthetic, Royal Purple because it has more lubrication protection than any other synthetic on the market. No brag, just fact! Alex

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html


cpmaverick
Gearhead

Posts: 1667
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 10-31-2000 05:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     
I worked for a Castrol Oil distributor, and I can tell you that there is no way that Castrol is the best oil out there. Why?

Because they don't make oil.
They're strictly a marketing company and they buy oil from other oil companies.

It's still good oil, and I am of the belief that any name brand oil is about the same as any name brand oil. Quaker State had some bad oil & bad publicity a few decades ago but now they're owned by Pennzoil. Exxon's Superflo is now the same as Mobil, and so on and so forth.

Mobil 1 is still the best, and IMHO you can group the rest of the synthetics together just below Mobil 1.

Another note, you shouldn't run an oil thicker than 30W on the street, especially in a new engine, it is very bad on startup and you don't need the extra thickness, 20W50 will hurt a new motor more than any 'bad' off-brand 10W30 oil will. 20W50 is made for engines that are just plain worn out and will smoke with a thinner oil.
A local Police department used 20W50 in a bunch of new 4.6L Crown Vics and burned up 5 motors before they stopped, Ford wouldn't warranty either because they only recommend 5W30.
If you look at oil bottles you'll see that only 5W30 and 10W30 have a 'seal' on the front, this seal states that these oils are certified by all automakers for use in new cars, no other oil weights (besides the new 0W30) have this seal, that should tell you something.

Just because a thicker oil gives you higher oil pressure doesn't mean you're getting more oil to the engine, it just means the oil pump has to work harder to get it there. Try sucking a milkshake through a straw, it takes more pressure than water but it doesn't mean you get more shake. -CP

------------------
-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
-1987 5.0L B303 roller cam/rockers
-1968 Mustang Toploader
-1977 Lincoln Versailles 9 inch w/discs
-1980 Granada Front Discs
www.MAVERICKGRABBER.com


Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 10-31-2000 05:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     
Hey Alex,
have you seen the 2wt. race oil red line sells? I caught a quick blurb in IDR or nhra heat, I can't remember. They claimed that all the top runners in the top classes were using it. I haven't seen it elsewhere...

for my picks, synthetic give me Mobil one or Amsoil
for regular, gimme valvoline. I avoid pennzoil and castrol.. one bottle of 20=50 castrol had chunks of "stuff" floating in the bottom

------------------
Marcus M&M member #591
End racism...kill everyone
Some people are alive only because it's against the law to kill them (credit SteveW)
If you must burn our flag, please wrap yourself in it first.
If you don't like the way I drive, get off the sidewalk!


Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27870
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: MAY 99

posted 10-31-2000 06:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     
First aof all Charlie, I beg to differ with you on several issues. Castrol DOES make their own oil. What a local bulk oil jobber or distributor does is beyond the control of the manufaturer. That's another reason that I always recomend buying packaged oil only, and not bulk. Secondly, Mobil 1 until very recently has basically been JUNK! I have the damaged parts to prove it. It still lacks any performace advantage over high quality petrolium based oils and I have the dyno sheets to prove that from back to back dyno testing earlier this year. Mobil 1 is fine for most stock street cars. If you have a high performance engine and you want a quality high performing synthetic then go with Royal Purple, Amsoil, Syntec, or stay with a petrolium based oil. Don't waste you hard earned money on Mobil 1. Not one NHRA or IHRA Pro Stock team uses Mobil 1. Cosworth engines endorses Royal Purple and that's almost as good a testomonial as mine (lol). Marcus, I have seen the 0w2 weight oils and have been testing some 0w7 weight stuff with Royal Purple. The results are very promising, but they are not yet perfected for any type of endurance. About 4 to 5 runs is all that they are recomending at this time. Alex

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html


kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6653
From: middle of NC
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 10-31-2000 06:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     
I use mobil 1 synthetic in the wife's 96 'bird, have since new(1500 miles first change). But for race app's I agree 120% with Royal Purple, none better!! Cracked 2 cylinders in the race car 4th of july weekend and I ran it anyway, 2 DAYS. Kept adding water to the radiator every couple passes. Got home drained 1 gallon of water out of the pan before I got to oil!! and the bearings looked like new and i was twisting it 7200, wouldn't wind up any more than that with all that water in there. Oh yea I run #11,5w-20, it's designed for alcohol and exotic fuels, the water seperates from the oil overnite.

Another example, at the IHRA Bracket Finals at Cordova this year,I came out of the waterbox 7200 in high gear, showin off ya know, stopped and the thing was covered with smoke from under the hood. I run dual oil filters and where the mount screw onto the block broke clear off as I started out of the water pumping 7 qrts on the track instantly.

we pulled it back to the trailer, cleaned it up, put a filter on,put oil back in it and started it. oil press was fine, went 6 rnds in the gamblers race, and ran it the rest of the year. Bearings showed a little scuffing,but I figure anything less than Royal Purple and the rods would have vacated the premises.

WOW that's a long one,sorry don't know when to shut up


cpmaverick
Gearhead

Posts: 1667
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 10-31-2000 08:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     
Well, I didn't think about Amsoil and Royal Purple, I agree that those are better than Mobil 1.

My Castrol rep told me directly that Castrol no longer makes automotive oil, they only make specialty oils for industrial purposes. Until I can see some hard proof otherwise, I believe him. Why would he tell me this if it wasn't true? It certainly doesn't make Castrol look any better.

Anyway, its too bad because, like oil filters, its difficult for a regular consumer to figure out which the best stuff. If a really cheap oil decided to advertise itself as premium and charged a premium price, people would buy (and swear) by it before long.

wythors
Gearhead

Posts: 2693
From: The cold, gray Pacific Northwest
Registered: SEP 2000

posted 10-31-2000 09:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for wythors   Click Here to Email wythors     
quote:
Originally posted by cpmaverick:
I worked for a Castrol Oil distributor, and I can tell you that there is no way that Castrol is the best oil out there. Why?

Because they don't make oil.
They're strictly a marketing company and they buy oil from other oil companies.

It's still good oil, and I am of the belief that any name brand oil is about the same as any name brand oil. Quaker State had some bad oil & bad publicity a few decades ago but now they're owned by Pennzoil.


Unless Castrol is lying through their teeth on both their worldwide website(www.castrol.com) and their US website (www.castrolauto.com) Castrol is still one of the biggest manufacturers in the world. We use Castrol at work and our local distributor assured me that they manufacture all their own product.

As for Quaker State being bought by Pennzoil, that is correct and very sad. Pennzoil is horrible oil. I have seen soooo many sludged up engines that used that crap.

In my personal opinion, as long as you use a good grade of oil and change it every 3,000 miles or better you should never have an oil-related problem. Synthetics are fine, but unless you race or live in a very cold or hot climate, your benefits are minimal given the cost differential. We have customers that have been coming to our dealership for years for routine maintainence and it's not uncommon to see 200,000+ miles on these cars with no oiling problems whatsoever.

------------------
Dave

1993 5.0 LX convertible (his)
1994 F150 Lightning #2392 of 4007 (hers)
http://www.islandclassicmustangclub.com
MCA Member #47838
M&M Member #666 - The devil made me do it.

Someday I'll get out of retail sales.

DC65inlines
Journeyman

Posts: 28
From: Nevada
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 10-31-2000 10:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DC65inlines   Click Here to Email DC65inlines     
I asked this question because I have been buying mobil 1 for my oil changes for about a year. I have seen this oil recommended under the hoods of some awesome production cars(mostly German). And we all know that Germans know there cars. I did notice a difference from using Syntec Synthetic blend. I wanted to make sure that I wasn't the only one using it in my car,paying $5 a quart, and listening to the cool Australian talk about it on TV.

I was wondering if you guys knew where I could get that Royal Purple and how much it runs a quart.

------------------
DC65inlines [OOOOOO)http://www.geocities.com/dc65inlines/Newsite.html


Stewart
Gearhead

Posts: 10227
From: Monterey, CA Mustangsandmore Member #437
Registered: APR 2000

posted 11-01-2000 03:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stewart   Click Here to Email Stewart     
Here's a twist to the question. This is for the synthetic users (street application only). How many miles do y'all travel between oil changes?

Stewart

clevemach1
Gearhead

Posts: 100
From: Ventura CA USA
Registered: AUG 99

posted 11-01-2000 04:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for clevemach1   Click Here to Email clevemach1     
i change oil about every 2500 miles or less i am young, dumb and have money to spend on synthetic oil every few thousand miles,,,,,ha ha

------------------
Mike Thomas,age 18
1970 Mach1
"FastFordWard"


Clark
Gearhead

Posts: 739
From: Rowlett,Texas
Registered: AUG 99

posted 11-01-2000 09:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Clark   Click Here to Email Clark     
I use the mobil 1 and change every 5,000 miles. If there is no benefit to running synthetic over petroleum based why don't I put it in the jet engines I work on? The reason is the oil will BURN!

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof Deluxe


70 Pony
Gearhead

Posts: 1955
From: West Chester, PA, USA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 11-01-2000 02:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 70 Pony   Click Here to Email 70 Pony     
OK...NOW THAT I AM TOTALLY CONFUSED REGARDING MOTOR OILS LET ME ASK THIS QUESTION......
Why are you NOT SUPPOSED to break an engine in with synthetic oil ??????
I know that Porsches and 'Vettes are sold out of the showroom with synthetics and I doubt that GM anyway would spend the money to mechanically break in an engine prior to selling it...
By the way...I see where Penzoil is spending a bundle on advertising there "new" "clean base" petrolium oil (with Bret Farve doing the commercials) and their new synthetic with something called PENNZANE...allegedly a Space Age NASA , Space Shuttle yadda yadda yadda ingredient..
Do you all still consider it junk ????

------------------
EDDIE D
Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof
Arrest Me Red


Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 11-01-2000 03:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     
to me all pennzoil = junk no matter what fancy name they give it, just my 2 cents

------------------
Marcus M&M member #591
End racism...kill everyone
Some people are alive only because it's against the law to kill them (credit SteveW)
If you must burn our flag, please wrap yourself in it first.
If you don't like the way I drive, get off the sidewalk!


fordfan
Gearhead

Posts: 3168
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: JUN 99

posted 11-01-2000 03:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for fordfan   Click Here to Email fordfan     
I use "Chevron"

------------------
*WARNING: RATED MA for Mature Audiences only!*

Joseph J Shaffer IV
Walla Walla, WA
MustangsandMore Member# 37
'68 Mustang Coupe, 2.79 gears.
'64 Mercury Comet, 2.80 gears
'64 Ford Falcon, maybe 3.55 gears
'43 Dodge WC-53,FACTORY 5.83 gears i belive!
'41 Chevy Pickup, No rear, no gear!
'70 Chevy Pickup

Heh, and you think Sam needs Gears?!

[This message has been edited by fordfan (edited 11-01-2000).]

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3367
From: Va Beach
Registered: JUN 2000

posted 11-01-2000 04:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     
Couple things here. I think a lot of us have regular engines but like to think its better than it really is. Synthetic seems to be for high performance and some people seem to be kidding themselves if they think they NEED it. I don't see the advantage to buying synthetic and then changing the oil every 3k. I use halvoline in my engine, have used it every oil change, every 3k, for over 70,000 miles. The engine looks like new inside.

As for the burning, Clark, I fly the engines you build. We see peak operating temps at up to 815 degrees C, which is what, about 1500 F. I figure our car engines run in the 250 F range, if that. There is a big difference temperatures and also rpm's. Consider that I don't go above 4500 or 5000 rpm in my car, but can see 37,500 rpm on the power turbine in the jet.

Yeah, there is a reason synthetics are used in jet engines, but for practical purposes, I really don't think its necessary in 302, especially at $5 a quart.

just my own opinion




jkilroy
Gearhead

Posts: 1808
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: DEC 99

posted 11-01-2000 04:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jkilroy   Click Here to Email jkilroy     
My Uncle and I have had this converstation MANY times, he is a big shot engineering consultant for Exxon and several other large oil companies. Lets just say, he knows his oil.

What is his opinion about motor oils? Well, he likes synthetics, but he uses WHATEVER brand name the guy at the quick change place puts in there. He said that the regularity of your oil changes is MUCH more important than the oil going in.

As far as cars that come with a Mobile 1 synthetic sticker on the motor. Yes, the auto companies do run the motors before shipping the cars. In the case of the "German" companies, they run the motors to achieve most of your required break-in. Chevy actually runs the Vettes on a specialized chassis dyno that test various aspects.

The reason they can break in a motor with these oils is that they have engineered them that way, the rings, cylinder bore finish, and bearing surface prep, and lots of other things, are all done to allow that to happen. My FE motor was not.

------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"


Nos351C
Gearhead

Posts: 3000
From: Rohnert Park, CA USA M&M member#591
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 11-01-2000 06:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Nos351C   Click Here to Email Nos351C     
Jay hit it right on the head, they can run synthetic from the get go due to the texture and hardness of th rings. Older rings were hard as nails, and it took time to get them to seat.
Newer rings are softer and will seat quicker. One representative from a major ring maker told me that theey recommend specifically not to lubricate the cylinderwalls with a slippery substance (like ATF for example) because the rings start to seat as you are installing the pistons in the bores.

------------------
Marcus M&M member #591
End racism...kill everyone
Some people are alive only because it's against the law to kill them (credit SteveW)
If you must burn our flag, please wrap yourself in it first.
If you don't like the way I drive, get off the sidewalk!


JoeC
Journeyman

Posts: 95
From: Springfield, MA.
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 11-01-2000 07:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JoeC     
Just my two cents worth - I'd recommend you give Amsoil a try. I've been using it in all my vehicles since new ('93 Taurus, '96 Saturn and my baby - '00 V6 Convertible).

In my wagon I use their oil, oil filter, and their ATF in the tranny and power steering; in the Saturn the oil, oil filter and ATF, and in new ride I've already switched the rear end, manual tranny and power steering - I've got to get some more break-in mileage on it before I can change over the motor.

The wagon has almost 80K trouble free miles and the Saturn, which gets used alot less, has 25K on it. I don't burn oil between changes in the wagon - in fact the only time I burn oil, and it's only ounces, is when I've got the thing fully loaded down with the whole family for vacations - long rides, hot weather, higher speeds, A/C on etc. Using the ATF has helped me avoil the Ford self-destructing tranny hex (at least so far). No problems with the power steering at all.

The Saturn burns nothing between changes. No doubt in my mind that mileage on the wagon has vastly improved - I always exceed the city rating by about 2mpg and the best I've gotten on the highway is 35mpg. Similar results on the Saturn.

The stats I've seen comparing Amsoil to Mobil 1 all show Amsoil is a better product. Take a look at their website for more info (www.amsoil.com). Also, for $10 a year you can become a preferred customer and buy their product over the net at dealer prices - they ship to your door.

I admit I'm a bit biased for the Amsoil product but I'd encourage you to try their stuff - particularly their Series 2000 0W-30 for normal use and their Universal ATF. You'll run cooler, smoother, improve mileage and if you're in a colder area of the country, starting and shifting will be alot easier in the dead of winter.

Good luck in your quest. If you want to know anymore about Amsoil just send a reply to this post and I'll get back to you.

------------------
Joe C.
2000 V6 Convertible


Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27870
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: MAY 99

posted 11-01-2000 07:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     
ALL factory synthetic equipped foriegn or domestic engines are broken in with petrolium based oil. That is a fact! Synthetics are so slipery that they will never allow ring seal on new rings and bores. Royal Purple products are available from NAPA. If they do not have it in stock, they can get it overnight from their local NAPA distribution center. Penzoil products have never been favorite of mine. I would change street cars with sythetics every 5000 miles with the filter. It's still cheap protection. Mobil cut a deal with GM and several other manufactureres to be their prime supplier of synthetics. It was pure economics. Alex

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html


cpmaverick
Gearhead

Posts: 1667
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 11-01-2000 07:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     
quote:
Originally posted by wythors:
We use Castrol at work and our local distributor assured me that they manufacture all their own product.
[/B]

Hey, I also use Castrol at work. And our Distributor rep told ME that Castrol doesn't make the GTX or Syntec oils (the only Castrol oils we sold) They buy them from other oil companies and use Castrol's good name to market them. He could have been a good bull$hitter, God knows there are plenty of them out there, but thats what he told me. I'm basically at the same infomoration level that you are. I think I'll email Castrol and see if I can find out. I can't find any stantements on their website that clearly says they make the oil, it just says how great the stuff is. -CP



70 Pony
Gearhead

Posts: 1955
From: West Chester, PA, USA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 11-02-2000 08:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 70 Pony   Click Here to Email 70 Pony     
OK GUYS...HOW ABOUT FILTERS ??????
Maybe just as or more important...used to use Frams exclusively but have changed to the "Pure One" from Purolator...any thoughts, srguments, opinions etc....

------------------
EDDIE D
Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof
Arrest Me Red


wythors
Gearhead

Posts: 2693
From: The cold, gray Pacific Northwest
Registered: SEP 2000

posted 11-02-2000 08:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for wythors   Click Here to Email wythors     
Motorcraft FL1A exclusively. $2.79 at Wally World. If it's good enough for the Ford warranty department, it's good enough for me.

Cut open a Fram sometime. There's not much in there. As far as aftermarket filters, Wix is far and away the best IMHO. They have anti-drainback valves, the filter element in reinforced in a metal cage and they've got probably twice as much filter media as a Fram.

Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead

Posts: 802
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: JUN 99

posted 11-02-2000 10:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott (69Mach)   Click Here to Email Scott (69Mach)     
I've got to weigh in on the oil deal. I use Chevron Delo 400 like a million farmers all across America. I have a 1988 Honda Accord with 196K miles on it. Passes emissions like it was a new car and has never burned an ounce of oil.

My Cleveland, on the other hand, gets the really good stuff...

DC65inlines
Journeyman

Posts: 28
From: Nevada
Registered: OCT 2000

posted 11-02-2000 11:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DC65inlines   Click Here to Email DC65inlines     
Fram just came out with a new oil filter. Its called the X2 or something, it uses triad fiber technology. Do you know any body that used one.

Also, B&M came out with a fairly new oil filter as well. But I'm not sure what the advantages are.

Not till recently did I know that Mobil 1 made oil filters and they sell them at walmart. I might have to try one.

Thanks!

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DC65inlines [OOOOOO)http://www.geocities.com/dc65inlines/Newsite.html


cpmaverick
Gearhead

Posts: 1667
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 11-02-2000 11:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     
Here is a GREAT site about oil filters, it proves what anyone who has cut open filters knows.. Frams are J-U-N-K! Check out this site. It is comparing oil filters for Mopars but they are using FL1A styles. -CP
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html


------------------
-Charlie Ping
1970 Maverick Grabber
-1987 5.0L B303 roller cam/rockers
-1968 Mustang Toploader
-1977 Lincoln Versailles 9 inch w/discs
-1980 Granada Front Discs
www.MAVERICKGRABBER.com

[This message has been edited by cpmaverick (edited 11-02-2000).]

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27870
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: MAY 99

posted 11-02-2000 01:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     
Motorcraft. I have used Motorcraft/Autolite filters almost exclusivly for almost 30 of my 47 years and never had a failure ever. No brag, just fact! I use them on MM and all of our other race or street cars. I also use them in all of our customers cars FoMoCo or competitive make. I have probably cut open every major brand of oil filter at one time or another and have found the Motorcrafts to be the most consistant in quality. Other good filters that I have used or would use as a substitute are Hastings, Baldwin, Purolater(main line only). I will not under any circumstances use a Fram oil filter. I have had too many failures with them. (I consider one to be "too" many) AC Delco are OK, as are Mopar. I also avoid "house brands" or privatly packaged oil filters. This is my oppinion whether you value it or not. This comes from my 30+ years of experiance with working on and racing FoMoCo products. If you dissagree, then you can sue me! Alex

------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html


cpmaverick
Gearhead

Posts: 1667
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 11-02-2000 01:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cpmaverick   Click Here to Email cpmaverick     
I forgot to mention I use Motorcraft as well. If you visit the site I linked to above, you'll see that Purolater makes Motorcraft (although to a higher standard than regular Purolaters). The PURE1 filter is basically a Motorcraft filter with silicone gasket & valve.

An interesting note, on that site he noted that Mopar uses several different brands iinside the Mopar packaging.. Including FRAM!! so be careful.

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3367
From: Va Beach
Registered: JUN 2000

posted 11-02-2000 04:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus   Click Here to Email sigtauenus     
Charlie, thanks for that link, very interesting reading. I too use Motorcraft exclusively.

Clark, I'm afraid I must admit what you say is true: checking the oil is one of the hardest things I have to do on pre-flight. We have a sight gauge that is really hard to see sometimes depending on sun-angle. As for the temps, I'll concede that was a good point too: different methods of measuring the temperature. However, I still think that we're comparing apples and oranges performance-wise between the two any way you look at it.

I always use the same oil in any engine, my mustang I started with Havoline (I was a big Davy Allison fan at the time), and I have since started using Valvoline on all my other vehicles. Next rebuild on the mustang gets Valvoline. I still use Motorcraft filters on them all.

georgeb
Gearhead

Posts: 927
From: Solomons, MD, USA
Registered: JUN 99

posted 11-03-2000 12:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for georgeb   Click Here to Email georgeb     
I run Mobil1 10/30 in my '94 Escort GT. It rolls up 140 miles every workday, and I change the oil and filter once every four months. Odometer rolled over to 165,000 this morning and the engine still runs like a watch. It doesn't burn any oil but it does leak/weep some...

If you're going to use petroleum based oils try Kendall.

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 27870
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: MAY 99

posted 11-03-2000 12:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     
Kendall is very good oil. It is just very difficult to get as they do not succumb to the "deep" deals that the discount chain stores require to carry a product. I use it when I can get it at a competitive price. Alex

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