Author
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Topic: 68 brake warning light and wire connection
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T5owner Gearhead Posts: 724 From: Germany Registered: APR 2000
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posted 07-08-2000 06:52 AM
I have not yet found anybody with a 68 that has a functional 68 brake warning light. I was told many repair shops cut the wire or take it out, because it is too much hassle to get the regulating balanced. In my car the wire connection is simply missing. Does anybody have more details besides the wiring diagramm about this connection. Is there a source, where I might get this wire, and if would get one, is it worth to put it in the car or do all of you disconnect it, because of the problems?
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mustangs68 Moderator Posts: 27681 From: Hampton Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater Registered: MAY 99
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posted 07-08-2000 09:01 AM
Mine was disconnected when I got it also.I see if I can find anything this evening...I have some 68 wiring harrnesses around also see if one is still intact. sam
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sigtauenus Gearhead Posts: 3969 From: Va Beach Registered: JUN 2000
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posted 07-09-2000 02:26 AM
I drove a 67 before my current 68 and both cars had problems with the brake light. I bought a new "sender", the plastic piece that screws onto the distribution block, but the light always stayed on whenever I had it hooked up in both cars. Both times I ended up just disconnecting the wiring to it. That's the only electrical part of my car that's never worked right.
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mustangs68 Moderator Posts: 27681 From: Hampton Va MCA#39406 M&M #12 Member Mustang Club of Tidewater Registered: MAY 99
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posted 07-09-2000 09:19 AM
Wolfgang, I went thur 3 wiring harness and all have been cut or damaged..only thing I can offer is a wiring diagram sam
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T5owner Gearhead Posts: 724 From: Germany Registered: APR 2000
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posted 07-10-2000 12:59 AM
Thank you Sam, I have the wiring diagramm. Just wanted to know, wether this is a common problem and wether there are some more tricky solutions than to disconnect or cut the wire.
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Wicked-Toy Gearhead Posts: 252 From: Richmond, VA USA Registered: JUN 99
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posted 07-10-2000 08:15 AM
My sons's 68 has the switch still hooked up and working. The light came on friday night on the way home from work. We are in the process of changing the MS and wheel cylinders in order to fix. MS we think was bad, wheel cylinders have broken bleeder valves. I hate brakes. If you need, I can try to trace the wires to the switch. ------------------ Scott Akom 65 Coupe (Modified) 68 Coupe (Son's) 2000 GT Conv. (Wifes) [URL=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3845/65dsde2.jpg www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/WickedToy.html
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Paul Leonard Gearhead Posts: 108 From: NLR, AR, USA Registered: MAY 2000
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posted 07-10-2000 10:42 AM
My 67 was unhooked when I got it also. I hooked it up and was light on! Although brakes seem ok. I have left it connected for now just as a reminder to go through the brakes, once I do that and its still on, it gets unplugged.Paul
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T5owner Gearhead Posts: 724 From: Germany Registered: APR 2000
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posted 07-10-2000 12:59 PM
Thanks Wicked-Toy, if you find out the proper trick, we all would certainly like to know it. Thanks for your offer to trace the wire. If it does not cost more than 5 bucks from a yard, it will be o.k. Don't need a NOS piece to unhook it later. If you happen to stumble over one, it would be nice. Tried it myself at Carlisle 3 years ago, but was not fortunate. Wolfgang
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larrym Journeyman Posts: 85 From: Ventura, CA Registered: SEP 99
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posted 07-10-2000 01:17 PM
My 67 with front disc brake had a leaking rear proportioning valve and the brake light was on. I had a shop replace the proportioning valve with an after market valve. The light was off and the brakes work great. Then the power booster went south, I had it rebuilt and decided to replace the master cyclinder. I put it all back together, bleed the brakes and now I can't get the light to go off. Just brought a 68 vert, during my test drive some guy's dog runs right in front of the car. I stomped on the brakes, car stops great and misses the dog by six inches. I get the car home, notice the brake light was disconnected, hook it up and the brake light is on. I am now battin 0 for 2 on brake lights. ARRRGH!
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brockjoe Gearhead Posts: 961 From: Sioux City, Iowa Registered: OCT 99
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posted 07-10-2000 03:38 PM
you will probably need to replace the proportioning valve. the plunger that trips the switch can and will get so stuck there is no way to get the plunger insde to move again. replacing the sender usually won't do it. most people don't want to spend the $$ to fix it and that's why it gets unhooked. Joe
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sigtauenus Gearhead Posts: 3969 From: Va Beach Registered: JUN 2000
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posted 07-10-2000 06:25 PM
Joe, Are you sure the proportioning valve needs replaced? NPD has a distribution block for 67's, but it's labeled"w/low fluid switch, disc" and it runs $79.95. They also have a proportioning valve that runs $180.47, but the picture doesn't look like the stock one I have in my 68. In fact, neither picture looks right for what I have. Supposing I wanted to spend that much money just to connect that switch, is anybody selling the part I need or do I have to really pay some bucks for NOS?
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larrym Journeyman Posts: 85 From: Ventura, CA Registered: SEP 99
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posted 07-11-2000 12:48 PM
If you think the proportioning valve is bad you can replace it with an after market valve. I replaced my leaking rear proportioning valve with a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve from Summit for $45 for my 67 fastback with factory front disc brakes. I mounted it by the rear axle, the same place as the origninal valve. It worked fine until I replace the master cyclinder. Now I cannot not get the plunger unstuck in the distribution block. I probably will replace the distribution block unless it can be rebuilt.
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sigtauenus Gearhead Posts: 3969 From: Va Beach Registered: JUN 2000
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posted 07-11-2000 05:28 PM
I didn't realize 67 and 68 were that different. Apparently 67 proportioning valve is back by the rear axel? Hopefully there's a link here to a pic of the 68 set-up, located at the regular spot on fender apron. http://members.aol.com/sigtauenus/68discblock.jpg So has anybody successfully rebuilt a distribution block, since that seems to be the real problem here? I have some extra distribution blocks off parts cars I've been thinking about taking one and grinding one side off so I can see what's inside this thing, see what makes it tick.
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larrym Journeyman Posts: 85 From: Ventura, CA Registered: SEP 99
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posted 07-11-2000 06:35 PM
The location of the 68 proportioning valve makes more sense. I though about mounting my after maket valve under the hood but I went for the quick and easier solution. I do have to crawl under the car to make the adjustment, but I have long arms so I dont have to crawl that far!
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T5owner Gearhead Posts: 724 From: Germany Registered: APR 2000
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posted 07-18-2000 02:26 PM
Here is probably the solution from John from VONSAUTOMOTIVE (not a foreign guy this time). He has worked for 25 years on Mustangs, so he should know."Usually,after bleeding system,have someone sit in the car with engine running ,while you slowly bleed the rear then the front,if needed, the trick,assuming the brake switch is good ,is having the person in the car stop pushing the pedal,and yell at you to close the bleeder,at the same time as the light goes off (centers itself)" [This message has been edited by T5owner (edited 07-18-2000).]
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sigtauenus Gearhead Posts: 3969 From: Va Beach Registered: JUN 2000
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posted 07-23-2000 01:17 AM
T5owner, Sounds like a good trick, but the key to the advice is that the brake switch is good? Does your buddy have any tricks to fixing one that is stuck?
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T5owner Gearhead Posts: 724 From: Germany Registered: APR 2000
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posted 07-23-2000 08:16 AM
You may try him yourself. He offers free Mustang Tech help online (only by e-mail) His address is [email protected] Call him John
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larrym Journeyman Posts: 85 From: Ventura, CA Registered: SEP 99
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posted 07-24-2000 11:14 AM
I never could get the plunger unstuck in the distribution block. It was full of years of dirt and rust. Brought a new one from National Parts Depot (they have a store 5 minutes from my house). Not cheap, $79, but everything now works as it should.
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