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  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  Ignition
  Plug gap w/Pertronix ignitor and coil

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This topic was originally posted in this forum: '64 1/2 to '68 1/2 -- The Classic Mustang
Author Topic:   Plug gap w/Pertronix ignitor and coil
Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 198
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 08-15-2000 12:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons     
Anyone know what the plug gap for a 351-2v with a slightly hotter than stock cam should be with the ignitor and 40KV coil? I have heard the plug gap should be increase when going to the hotter coil.


Mustang Man
Gearhead

Posts: 335
From: Howe Indiana USA
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 08-15-2000 09:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mustang Man     
Rob, Before my current setup I ran a petronix with a msd blaster 2 coil, I ran the plugs gapped at .040 thous
It seemed to work very well!!
Later,

Doug

------------------
66coupe 200ci "InlineFever"
92F-150 4.9L "BigBlue"
Wanna Run 14's!!!!!


steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: MAR 2000

posted 08-15-2000 11:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66     
Rob,

Don't get too wide on your gap, .036-.040 should be fine! Doug's right on.

SteveW

kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3415
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: JUN 99

posted 08-15-2000 11:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode     
Rob,
I don't know......I just wanted to add something relating to Pertronix. This is from the new Mustang Monthly with the Boss 302 and Z28 on the cover. A question was asked about the ballast resistor or wire and hooking up a Pertronix. It was stated that the Pertronix only requires 6 volts to work. They suggest checking the voltage on the positive side of the coil if it excedes the 6 volts, leave the resistor wire in the circuit, if it is borderline, remove the resistor wire and go with 12 volts. I think this answers and old thread.

Mike

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: JUN 2000

posted 08-18-2000 05:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus     
Mike,
I just re-read that column from mustang monthly and am left with more questions than answers.

I've been using the pertronix on my 302 for about 4 or 5 years now. about two years ago the starter solenoid went out while I was out of town, at a truck stop, around 11:30 at night. Needless to say, I was in a hurtlocker to get home. I ended up jumping the ignition circuit (effectively bypassing the resistor wire)to the coil and got the car started and kept it running long enough to get home.

the next day I open the hood to change the starter solenoid and undo my jumper wires, and notice oil all over the place and the car won't fire. Turns out the coil overheaded and the case cracked, and the oil inside blew all over. I changed the coil, still didn't run. Turns out the pertronix unit was fried too. I called pertronix, sent the ignitor back to them, and they said it had failed and sent me a new one. While on the phone with pertronix, they told me about the resistor wire and how the voltage to the coil needs to be reduced below the normal 12V, and they didn't mention the need to have at least 6v to the ignitor.

Bob Aliberto normally gives good advice, but I think it would be wrong to cut that resistance wire out of the ignition circuit.





kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3415
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: JUN 99

posted 08-18-2000 11:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode     
Sig,
I can't argue either way, I've never used a pertronix. I just happen to read the article and thought it was of interest.

As for you burning up your unit, it should have fried the instant you applied the direct voltage and the car wouldn't have run at all. I would almost suggest an overcharging situation in your case. Since the solenoid went first, then the coil. A normal coil should withstand 12v input with no problems.

I have taken the resistor wire out of both my 65 and Beckys 66. I'm running a Mallory Hyfire and Beckys 66 has an Accel 300 Digital. Both are worth the money in my opinion.

Mike

65coupei6
Gearhead

Posts: 458
From: S.F., CA
Registered: MAY 2000

posted 08-19-2000 01:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65coupei6     
If you run a hotter than stock coil you don't need the resistor. But it will not hurt to leave it in.


kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3415
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: JUN 99

posted 08-20-2000 12:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode     
65coupei6,
I think we need to clarify the original purpose of the resistor wire. If a car still is using breaker points, and a 12v source is used with no resistor in the circuit to the points, the life of the points will be shortened due to burning of the contacts. By adding the resistor wire or block to reduce the voltage, the points lasted longer.

Mike

Rob Parsons
Gearhead

Posts: 198
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 08-24-2000 12:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rob Parsons     
Told by someone at Pertronixs that the gap should be opened .005-.007 over the stock setting


70 Pony
Gearhead

Posts: 2366
From: West Chester, PA, USA
Registered: JAN 2000

posted 08-24-2000 08:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 70 Pony     
WELL LET ME STIR THIS POT...when I had the 302 in the pony, had a stock points distributor which I immediately changed to a Pertronix....had an entry level MSD box (Blaster) and a blaster coil... the car ran like crap...popping backfiring no "go" at all...Called Pertronix and they said you must have a resistor somewhere because the Pertronix needs 12 volts..I couldn't find a resistor so went to my mechanic (a Chevy guy no less) and he said these Mustangs (Mine's a 70) had a resistor wire from the ignition to save the points....he clipped it...ran a 12 volt wire from the ignitin to the box, coil and Distributor with the Pertronix and it was like a Heart Transplant...the car ran perfect and very gutsy for a heated up 302...
so from what I know can the resistor or resistor wire...

------------------
EDDIE D
Resto Mod '70 Sport Roof
Arrest Me Red


sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: JUN 2000

posted 08-26-2000 06:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus     
Ok guys, now I'm thinking that maybe I'll try to do this wiring thing too, although my car runs fine as it is. Problem though, my 68 has a factory tach, and its wired in series to that thick pink ignition wire. Anyone have any ideas on what I'd have to do to cut the resistor wire out of the circuit and keep my tach running?


74merc
Gearhead

Posts: 1322
From: Demopolis AL
Registered: JUN 99

posted 08-27-2000 12:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 74merc     
I gapped my plugs at .38. did just fine. I tightened my pertronix gap up a bit, it seemed to run better... I think they recommend like .28, I'm probably running .25.
I set it with a feeler guage the first couple of times, now I set it close then fool around like I do the actual timing.

------------------
74 Mercury Comet
302
AOD
3:1
Will the 302 built properly this summer? wish I knew...
http://members.tripod.com/red74merc


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