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Author
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Topic: "turkey" pan
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craigber
Journeyman Posts: 78
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: SEP 2000
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posted 10-19-2000 05:03 PM
 
Sorry about this topic again but I am close to installing my aluminum intake and am getting far too much conflicting advice....I have gotten e-mail from Edelbrock tech that I should use EITHER the turkey pan OR the gasket but not both...another one from them said to cut the pan and turn in the edges near heads (similar to what you said Steve)...I phoned Edelbrock and they said just use the FelPro gaskets which have no opening for the heat riser, this should lead to a cooler intake and no "coking" of oil...Summit gave the same advice....one of my mustang mags has a pictorial installation of the same manifold (#2750) in to a 351C and they used the valley pan with the paper gaskets....Edelbrock says NEVER do that with an aluminum intake....doesn't like to be metal on metal....all I really want is to know the correct way to install my intake so that I don't have to redo it in a few days or end up with "coked" oil...pleeeeease helllllpp....I am sure many of you have done this in your sleep but please be gentle as it is only my first time...
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Craigber
71 Red Rag
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: MAY 99
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posted 10-19-2000 06:40 PM
My method has worked well for me, oh, 20-30 times...  When they tell you not to use both, they are assuming you are not trimming the port area on the turkey pan, I'm sure. If you trim the turkey pan, it has nowhere to go, and can't hurt anything. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773 [This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 10-19-2000).]
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craigber
Journeyman Posts: 78
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: SEP 2000
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posted 10-19-2000 06:55 PM
thanks Steve,should I just cut port flange area off in a straight line?? I assume I don't want to leave a gap between the pan and the intake/head area where oil might get up...also if I install the trimmed pan should I cut a small opening in the intake gasket for the intake exhaust crossover or just leave it closed (cooler intake = more power or so I am told)...sorry for being anal about this but I only want to do it right the first time.... thanks again. ------------------
Craigber
71 Red Rag
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: MAY 99
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posted 10-19-2000 07:18 PM
Cut it so that the port areas form 'fingers' that tuck under the heads to hold the pan down. I leave the exhaust crossovers plugged. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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craigber
Journeyman Posts: 78
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: SEP 2000
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posted 10-19-2000 09:32 PM
thanks Steve,I think I am getting the picture...and on the end??? earlier you mentioned that I could bend the ends to act like "legs" ..can I just trim them so they are tight against the block or should they also wedge in??? again, I really appreciate the advise from an expert who knows what he is talking about vs: a techno who just wants to answer their next call....
thanks
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Craigber
71 Red Rag
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: MAY 99
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posted 10-19-2000 09:39 PM
In the past I just had the ends go over the block ends, but I was thinking of cutting them short on the next one. Either way works, but I think wedging them against the end of the inside of the lifter valley would be better. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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craigber
Journeyman Posts: 78
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: SEP 2000
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posted 10-20-2000 12:01 PM
thanks Steve, I feel better about having the pan in place and will perform the operation as you have described...any other last minute tips?? are stainless steel intake bolts the way to go or the moly type?? is re-torquing required after so many miles...really looking forward to finally having a 4B on the stang.thanks ------------------
Craigber
71 Red Rag
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: MAY 99
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posted 10-20-2000 01:58 PM
Stainless steel vs chrome moly is just a matter of appearance.It is a good idea to retorque after a few heat cycles, and keep an eye on periodically afterwards. I've run that manifold before on a 351C I put in an F-150. It's a good piece. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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Rob Parsons
Gearhead Posts: 196
From: Lebanon,TN
Registered: JAN 2000
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posted 10-20-2000 05:06 PM
I was not sure about using the pan and the gaskets around the intake ports when I rebuilt my 351C this Winter. 13 years ago when I rebuilt it, I thought there was only the pan and end gaskets. Is it best to use the pan and gaskets or just the pan? Where are you talking about cutting the pan, at the ends of the seals or where? I am using the stock 2V intake.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 42139
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: MAY 99
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posted 10-20-2000 06:18 PM
You use either-or. You don't use a turkey pan and a pair of gaskets.I cut them half way down the ports and tuck them under the heads. I'll take a photo when I take my intake off in the next week or so, providing my digital camera cooperates. I had been leaving the rail ends alone, but I think I will start trimming them as well. ------------------
SteveLaRiviere/Webmaster -- MCA # 47773
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25052
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: MAY 99
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posted 10-23-2000 11:56 AM
Steve's method is correct and the ONLY way to install an aluminum intake on a 351C. Also, I do not use the end rail gaskets on any FoMoCo V-8 when installing an aluminum intake. Just a 1/4 inch bead of quality silicone. No leaks or fit problems ever that way. Alex------------------
Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator
Fleet of FoMoCo's too long to list!
http://superstockers.homestead.com/week.html
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